Ancient emperors, baroque artists and, of course, the pope -- whatever you’re after, Rome has something to offer. This city is an onion: Beneath every layer, there are 50 more to discover.
Especially when it comes to archaeology. While crowds clog the Colosseum and Roman Forum, there are countless sites that are equally atmospheric but a whole lot less peopled. The Terme di Caracalla is a vast bathing complex, where Romans used to hit the sauna and pools, work out, and read in the still-visible library. The scale of the site is jaw-dropping, as are the mosaics left in situ. The best thing? It’s located just off the standard city map -- meaning you’ll typically only see a handful of visitors.
Other layers to explore: the semiprivate sites with limited opening times -- like the Scatola Archeologica, or “archaeological box,” at the foot of the Aventine Hill, where a Roman villa lies beneath a modern apartment complex. Don’t forget the lesser-visited, regular sites -- like the Domus Aurea (the emperor Nero’s villa), and the Domus Romane (Roman houses) below Palazzo Valentini, which come to life with a sound and light show.
You won’t skip the Vatican, of course -- but go early. Tour groups are banned before 8:30 a.m. at St. Peter’s Basilica, so go at 7 a.m. -- then buy the “breakfast at the museums” ticket for the Vatican Museums (including the Sistine Chapel), which gets you in at 7:45 a.m., before the official opening time of 8:30 a.m. You’ll get breakfast in the famous Pigna courtyard and then can start your visit before everyone else arrives.
Beside every tourist hotspot is a lesser-known jewel. Beneath the Spanish Steps is the Keats-Shelley House, dedicated to the Romantic poets who loved Italy. At the top of Via Veneto, you can walk on top of the ancient Aurelian Walls. And in touristy Trastevere, don’t miss Villa Farnesina, a palace frescoed by the likes of Raphael.
Most important of all? Don’t rush it. That onion takes a while to peel.
